Diamond bracelet named after Hollywood western star

A diamond “Cooper” bracelet, named after Hollywood western great Gary Cooper who bought the first of this design for his wife in 1958, is expected to galvanise auction goers for Sotheby’s Australia Melbourne jewellery sale on Tuesday at Anzac House, 4 Collins Street.

Designed by one of the 20^th century’s most renowned jewellery designers Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, the bracelet comprises a series of six openwork cushion-shaped links, pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds.

An aquamarine, diamond and sapphire pendant necklace/brooch (estimate $60,000-$80,000) is a striking and commanding item of jewellery produced by Tiffany & Co in the United States during World War II.

The original design was crafted for the New York World’s Fair of 1939, and proved so popular that the design was developed for sale.

The war years were a turning point for design and manufacture of jewellery – moving from war-ravaged and rationed Europe to the grand optimism of the United States, which by that time had recovered from the Great Depression.

This magnificent piece graces the front cover of the Sotheby’s Australia catalogue and is complemented by companion jewels comprising earrings (estimate $15,000-$20,000) and a bracelet (estimate $60,000-$80,000).

Another design by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co is the iconic ‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch with brilliant cut diamonds.

One of Schlumberger’s most recognised designs, the setting was originally designed in the 1960s and recreated decades later to mount the famed Tiffany Yellow Diamond in 1995 for a Jean Schlumberger retrospective at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

It remained in this setting until Tiffany & Co’s 175th anniversary in 2012. The “Bird on a Rock” has been recreated to display only the most extraordinary jewels.

The current piece offered by Sotheby’s Australia presents the setting with a magnificent 60-carat Aquamarine, mounted in 18-carat gold and platinum.

Having married the sister of one of Paris’ most renowned couturiers, René Boivin was at the forefront of fashion and jewellery design.

Boivin’s unique and striking designs parallel and complement those made in high fashion of the period – his most iconic jewels being produced in the 1930s and 1940s when his widow Jeanne ran the firm.

Of supreme elegance, a chalcendony and sapphire ‘melon-slice’ bracelet will be offered for sale with an oval shaped blue chalcendony half bezel-set between three pear shaped sapphires either side (estimate $50,000-70,000).

Timepieces feature strongly in the sale and include modern designs, vintage wristwatches and pocket watches.

A special edition 2009 Rolex is a highlight with its zebra stripe dial, diamond indexes, black sapphire set bezel and 18ct white gold folding clasp (estimate $20,000-30,000).

A Bulgari diamond ‘serpenti’ wristwatch with black opaline dial, brilliant-cut diamond set bezel and 18ct pink gold-coiled sprung bracelet (estimate $18,000-24,000) is also expected to attract heavy interest.

Vintage pieces include an 1860s English 18ct gold pocket watch (estimate $1,000-1,500) and a 1960s Patek Philippe 18ct gold wristwatch (estimate $3,000-5,000).